Silk route is in news often even after ages of its first existence, but do you know there was a cotton route as well?
The Cotton Route was a sea-based trade route that played a key role in the global exchange of cotton across the Indian Ocean, linking India with Europe and Asia. This trade route helped India become a central player in the global economy, significantly contributing to the rise of global capitalism. The Coromandel coast in India was a major producer of high-quality cotton, which was transported by skilled Arab seafarers and later Portuguese traders to Europe. The Cotton Route not only served as a vital economic lifeline for India but also helped shape the world’s empires and superpowers. Though the route faded after World War I, India has revived its significance with the launch of the Cotton Road project in 2016, aiming to improve trade routes and bolster its political and economic influence. This rich history of cotton trade set the stage for cotton’s crucial role in shaping the world’s industries and economies, a legacy that continues to evolve today.
Cotton, one of the most widely used natural fibers in the world, has long played a pivotal role in shaping global economies and industries. Its journey from ancient cultivation to modern-day mass production is intertwined with the development of human civilization, influencing everything from ancient empires to the Industrial Revolution. Yet, as cotton remains an essential material in the textile industry, it is not without its environmental challenges. A growing concern in recent years has been the industry’s contribution to plastic leakage—a form of plastic pollution that arises from the production, use, and disposal of synthetic fibers in textiles. As demand for cotton grows, so too does the need for sustainable practices and solutions to mitigate its environmental impact.
The advent and establishment of the Cotton Industry
Cotton’s story is as old as civilization itself. Evidence of cotton fabrics has been found in ancient civilizations such as Egypt, India, and Peru, dating back thousands of years. In the Indus Valley of Pakistan, cotton was already being spun and woven into cloth as early as 3000 BCE. The cultivation and use of cotton spread across the globe, from ancient Egypt to South America, and by 800 AD, Arab merchants had introduced cotton cloth to Europe. By the 17th century, the cotton trade reached a peak, with India’s cotton fabrics having a significant cultural impact on Europe. But it was the Industrial Revolution that truly transformed cotton’s place in the world. In 1793, the invention of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney revolutionized cotton production in the United States, leading to a massive increase in supply. This surge in production contributed to the growth of the American economy and the expansion of slavery in the southern United States. Cotton’s role in industry, fashion, and trade became solidified, setting the stage for its global prominence in modern times.
Plastic leakage and pollution in the Cotton Industry
Though cotton has long been seen as a natural and sustainable fiber, its environmental footprint is not without significant issues. The garment industry, including cotton production, is responsible for an alarming amount of plastic leakage—an often-overlooked contributor to global plastic pollution. According to a study published by Cotton Incorporated in collaboration with other leading researchers, the apparel industry is responsible for 14% of all plastic leakage into the environment, equating to roughly 8.3 million metric tons of plastic annually. This is primarily due to the production, use, and disposal of synthetic clothing materials such as polyester and nylon.
Cotton, though a natural fiber, still plays a role in this issue. The production of cotton requires significant amounts of water, pesticides, and fertilizers—resources that can contribute to environmental degradation if not managed properly. Additionally, the cultivation of cotton contributes to the pollution of water sources and soil, particularly when conventional farming methods rely heavily on chemicals and non-sustainable practices. The Aral Sea disaster, where unsustainable cotton irrigation practices drained a once-thriving water body, remains one of the starkest examples of the devastating effects of unchecked cotton production on ecosystems.
As the demand for clothing continues to grow, so does the impact of textile waste and plastic leakage on the environment. While cotton fibers themselves are biodegradable, the pollution associated with the processes of growing, processing, and manufacturing cotton into garments remains a serious concern.
Nazeerah: A brand with a vision for sustainability
Amidst these environmental concerns, some brands are emerging with a new vision for the future of cotton—one that prioritizes sustainability, transparency, and regeneration. Nazeerah, a Portland-based apparel startup, is one such example of a company trying to make a difference in the cotton industry.
Founded by Emily Mikhaiel, whose family has a long history in cotton farming in Egypt, Nazeerah aims to support sustainable farming practices and revive Egypt’s once-thriving cotton industry. The brand’s commitment to sustainability is inspired by Emily’s grandmother, Nazeerah, a seamstress who worked to support her community and preserve the cultural significance of cotton in Egypt. Emily’s mission is not just about producing clothing but about supporting a regenerative approach to cotton farming—one that restores the soil and biodiversity of Egypt’s agricultural land, which has been heavily impacted by modern farming techniques and the construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1970s.
Unlike conventional cotton farming, which often relies on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, Nazeerah partners with farmers who use biodynamic and regenerative methods. These techniques focus on using natural compost, avoiding harmful chemicals, and enhancing the land’s fertility in a sustainable manner. This approach not only helps to restore the land but also addresses the larger environmental concerns associated with cotton production.
Solutions for reducing cotton’s environmental impact
While the cotton industry does face significant environmental challenges, there are solutions being put in place to address the issues of plastic leakage and pollution. In response to the growing concern over textile waste and plastic pollution, Cotton Incorporated has played a key role in researching and developing strategies to reduce the environmental footprint of cotton production. As part of the Plastic Leak Project (PLP), the organization has created methodological guidelines that provide businesses with tools to identify, measure, and address plastic leakage in their value chains. This is a crucial step in assessing the broader environmental impact of the cotton industry and taking actionable steps to reduce pollution.
Furthermore, brands like Nazeerah are leading the charge by offering products made from 98% biodegradable materials. Their commitment to using natural, sustainable fibers and ensuring that their garments are designed with end-of-life solutions in mind represents a critical step forward for the industry. As more brands adopt similar practices, the hope is that cotton can be produced in a way that minimizes environmental harm while still meeting global demand.
The shift toward more sustainable cotton farming and manufacturing is part of a broader movement within the fashion industry to reduce its reliance on synthetic fibers, limit water consumption, and cut down on plastic pollution. By promoting regenerative practices, brands like Nazeerah are demonstrating that it is possible to honor the legacy of cotton while ensuring its future is more sustainable.
The cotton industry, despite its deep historical and economic significance, faces critical environmental challenges. From its water-intensive cultivation to the pollution generated by synthetic fibers, the cotton sector must evolve to meet the demands of a more sustainable future. While the problem of plastic leakage in the global apparel industry is significant, companies like Nazeerah are providing a roadmap for how cotton can be produced and consumed in a way that supports both the planet and its people.
As consumers and producers alike continue to navigate the complexities of sustainability in the fashion industry, it is clear that cotton’s future depends on its ability to adapt. Through innovation, transparency, and a commitment to regenerative practices, the cotton industry can lead the way toward a more sustainable and environmentally responsible future.
