Chanel has taken a significant step towards sustainability with the launch of Nevold, a new independent entity focused on developing recycled materials at scale. This initiative addresses the growing scarcity of high-quality, traceable raw fibres by transforming waste materials into valuable resources.
Nevold, short for “never old,” is not a marketing campaign or a sustainability report but a “third activity” within Chanel’s structure, alongside its fashion and Métiers d’Art divisions. The company has been quietly experimenting with closed-loop processes for years, such as incorporating recycled threads into its signature tweed and replacing plastic reinforcements in shoes and bags with processed leather waste. The creation of Nevold formalises these efforts into a dedicated system.
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, explains, “We started by asking ourselves what happens to the materials that don’t make it into a final product, or those that reach the end of their first life. At Chanel, we didn’t destroy unsold products. But we also didn’t yet have a real system to understand their full potential. Nevold is that system.”
Sophie Brocart, former CEO of Patou and a trained engineer, took charge of Nevold in January 2025. Under her leadership, Nevold will operate as an open platform, extending beyond Chanel to collaborate with other brands. One of its core components is L’Atelier des Matières, a Chanel-initiated company that dismantles end-of-life products and sorts materials by type. Originally created to manage Chanel’s own waste, the atelier now services a broad range of fashion brands. Nevold also partners with French yarn manufacturer Filatures du Parc, materials innovator Authentic Material, and academic institutions such as the University of Cambridge and Politecnico di Milano.
Pavlovsky emphasises the necessity of this collaborative approach: “Chanel is too small on its own to build the scale this requires. That’s why we created a separate, open platform that can bring others in.”
The launch of Nevold comes at a pivotal moment for the luxury sector, which faces challenges from softening demand in China and increasing environmental expectations from younger consumers. Luxury brands are under pressure to reduce their environmental impact while maintaining craftsmanship and desirability.
Critics caution that investments in circularity and recycling alone will not significantly reduce fashion’s environmental footprint if overproduction continues unchecked; some argue it may even enable overproduction.
Nevold consolidates Chanel’s existing sustainability initiatives, including L’Atelier des Matières and partnerships with recycling-focused companies, with an investment reportedly between €50 million and €80 million. The new entity aims to develop recycled materials from manufacturing offcuts, unused textiles, and unsold items, focusing on natural fibres such as wool, silk, cashmere, and leather.
Chanel’s ambition is for Nevold to become a key player in a profound transformation process that rethinks product lifecycles, develops new skills, and contributes to a more circular economy. While Chanel will be a significant client, Nevold is designed to serve a wider market, including other fashion brands and industries such as sportswear, automotive, and aviation.
This initiative positions circular materials as a strategic pillar alongside Chanel’s fashion and Métiers d’Art divisions, signalling the brand’s commitment to innovation and sustainability in the face of evolving industry demands.
